Pockmarked cliffs of Akoris, Middle Egypt (north of Minya)
A woman entering the Shrine of Sachal Sarmast

At the Shrine of Sachal Sarmast, Sindh

Tracking the world's rarities and wonders—one pin at a time

Welcome to placessaved, a travel blog / collection of off-the-beaten-path destinations. Join me here for regular entries, stories, photos and guides compiled from the road.

It didn’t take long after Google’s ‘Saved Places’ appeared that my world map exploded with pins: from dazzling shrines to remote, dusty ruins, placed to preserve past favorites or to steer dream routes of the future. I hope that in perusing this blog you’ll be tempted to add from my list of saved places to yours.

Pockmarked cliffs of Akoris, Middle Egypt (north of Minya)

At the Shrine of Sachal Sarmast, Sindh

The jagged ruins of Shahin al-Khalwati’s khanqa (Sufi lodge) first caught my eye from Saladdin’s Citadel. On the hazy horizon to the south, its minaret juts from the cliffs of Muqattam like a knife. From miles away, the rest of the complex appears one with the desolate ridge.
A carton of kreteks was our ticket to enter a funeral party in the highlands of Tana Toraja. Tobacco, sweets and palm wine were consumed in abundance as the big day's events rolled along: buffalo sacrifice, a mass slaughter of pigs and the ritual shaking of the coffin to send the deceased on their way.
Tattered, discolored jumpsuits fill most of the nave at Samalut's Church of the 21 Martyrs, along with the zip tie cords that bound their hands and whatever was found in their pockets. Their fresh-faced icons adorn the back of the sanctuary with gold-leaf halos beneath an image of Christ.
Born right here in tiny Daraza, the poet-saint Sachal Sarmast is honored with one of Sindh's most truly dazzling shrines. Born in the mid-1700s as Abdul Wahab Farouqi, his piety earned him the pen name Sachal: the Truthful. His lines later earned him the additional sobriquet Sarmast, the Ecstatic—thus rendering him, roughly, the ‘Mystic of Truth’.
‘Take the young child and his mother and flee into Egypt,’ the angel told Joseph. Marked with many dozens of miracles, the Holy Family's momentous, round-trip journey would, according to legend, rack up some 3,000km. In October 2022, I set out to trace their route through Middle Egypt.
Carved into a ridge just east of the Nile—with a history spanning over 4,000 years—is ancient Akoris, one of Middle Egypt’s secrets, set beside the sleepy village of Tahna al Gabal. The team tasked with finding some answers to its mysteries wasn't there when I arrived. It was officially ‘closed.'